Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Refurbished Proton Dash Control Panel


For today it'll be a bit special...
This project will be about uninstalling, refurbish and reinstall the Proton Dash Control Panel as available to many Proton cars (Waja, Saga, Gen 2, Persona). The 5 buttons controls includes switches to alarm, fog lamp, hazard lights, heater for rear window, and also features an extra "useless" button (If not mistaken is Defrost button, applicable for export models only, you won't want it to be in your car in Malaysia).

Over the years of operations, LED lights will gradually dims itself out or totally blowed. If that's not the case, then wiring problem will usually occur for cars after 5 years. That's what happened to this controls. The middle Hazard light button LED is rather dim, and the heater for rear window idle LED experienced problem in lighting up itself. Another very common problem on electronics equipment.

After removing the covers and radio, i'm now able to access the dash controls easily. Just by removing another two extra screws and the front easily detachable panel, i'm able to pull the panel out with slight force.

The panel pulled out with wires still on the port

I then removed the wires connected to the port, then unscrewed the panel. The screw can be found under the sticker saying "Warranty void if seal is broken or tampered." (As if they're giving me warranty) Unscrewing the console will make the back access comes loose, and can be easily opened out using Flat head screwdriver.

View from back

Very obvious, the white ports on the right are for the switches output with the black port on the centre as the input power supply. Thicker materials are used for the output as they involved high current i guess. (Fog lamps and Rear window heater. perhaps defrost too?)

You might notice the last button on the right, which is supposed to be defrost button, is occupied by two wires. Actually a soldered those two wires. Initially for car's interior illumination purpose, but failed as it output is less than 2V... (Optimal voltage for LEDs)



Notice the white LED in the middle and the wires running from second LED to the forth.

I changed the LED for the third switch (Hazard light) just by simple desoldering and soldering work. I even purposely change a bigger one so that it illuminates brighter. The original LED has been very dim. About the hot wiring from second to forth LED is to tap power from the second LED to the forth LED (Heater for rear window). Reason behind is the idle LED doesn't receive any power when i tested with my multimeter. To solve this with the simplest method, use the simplest wire trick. (Simple and Effective)

Thats how i spent another night for Proton...

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Just for a burnt fuse...


Well, no user guide provided when the car is purchased over... Second hand mah. After like the radio fuse is out 2 days, I finally found that there's another fuse compartment located below the drivers steering. Thanks to a loooong research from the internet in Proton forums.

If you're wondering what's the boxy stuff beside the side mirrors adjuster, it is the NGV display unit. It displays real-time information whether petrol/natural gas combustion is used, together with NGV fuel indicator and also comes with switch to activate either petrol or natural gas.

After removing the cover holded by some kind of metal studs, the fusebox can be seen easily.


Was wondering what's with the fuse pointing out of the box. Found out that it's connected to the ECU (Electronic Control unit) of the vehicle. If not mistaken, this fuse will be for the NGV controls.


Fusebox cover after removal


Inside the fuse compartment with fuses

Without user manual again, I quickly identified the audio fuse (10 Amp RED) and removed it. Obviously seen its blown after some short-circuit when I tried to test my product (Posted on the post before this)

And also, I removed the cigarette lighter fuse (15 Amp yellow) as it was already blown since the car is delivered. To get the power from the cigaeatte lighter, I had hot-wired a connection from the radio's ACC wire to the cigarette lighter.

The blown fuse removed... Notice the broken link inside the middle of the fuse.


New fuse to be placed into working

Quickly I removed the hot-wire from the radio to the cigarette lighter (To prevent short-circuit again) and replaced the fuse.

And the radio turned on instantly...
With the cigarette lighter working too...

Done...
Now i'm able to enjoy my ride with my product...
No more fear to blow up the radio...